The compassguides.info e-guide to...
Kathmandu, Nepal
Please use these links to access the section of the guide which interests you.
Getting there
Visas
History / Contexts
Local Cultures
Central Kathmandu
Patan (Lalitpur)
Bhaktapur
Around the valley
Temples and Gompas
Museums and Libraries
Getting Around
Shopping
Nightlife
Festivals
Trekking
Food and drink
Acommodation
Health
Money and Costs
Maps
Communications
Useful links and numbers
Recommended reading
Dangers and annoyances
About the author
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Until several decades ago, lucky was the traveller who had passage to Kathmandu. With it’s million temples and pleasant climate, the Kathmandu valley of the hidden kingdom of Nepal, was something of a Shangri-La.
Above: Early morning in Patan
Durbar Square is a great time to check out the Malla temples of
Lallitpur - Picture © Jon Mitchell / Lightroom Photos
For centuries, only a handful of travellers were allowed in to this hidden kingdom and like neighbouring Tibet, it intrigued many explorers and travellers.
This changed in the late 1940s, largely due to the friendship of the then monarch, King Tribuvan and a Russian emigre, Boris Lissanovitch.
When Nepal opened up more to visitors from abroad in the early 1950s, travellers headed for the city in droves and in subsequent decades, it became a Mecca for hippies on the south Asian trail.
Above: A Kumari - a living goddess - at an ornately carved window of her house in Basantapur (Kathmandu) Durbar Square. Patan, Bakhtapur and Kathmandu each have their own Kumari, always a girl who has not reached puberty and is thought by many Nepalese Hindus as a manifestation of the goddess Durga - Picture by Jon Mitchell / Lightroom Photos
Nowadays, much of it’s former architectural glamour has faded, beautiful old buildings being replaced mostly by a tedium of vernacular architecture. Nevertheless, the city has not completely lost it’s charms and is as popular as ever with travellers, with a few million visiting each year.
Actually, three cities-in-one, Kathmandu being the centre and the two satellites of Batkapur and Patan offering a slightly different pace. All have fantastic temple complexes which delight and fascinate visitors.
Above: Buddha is always watching...from the great stupa at Swayambhunath - Picture by Jon Mitchell / Lightroom Photos
Also, as a gateway to adventure, Kathmandu has few rivals. To the north is the spectacular Himalayan range and Mount Everest and to the south the teaming jungles of Chitwan National Park, with it’s elephants, rhinos and tigers. To the west is Pokhara, a relaxing second city situated at the foot of the Annapurna range with a beautiful lake.
Aside from the Annapurna trek and a more exotic one to the Kingdom of Mustang, there is also paragliding and rafting down Nepal's amazing rivers.
Whatever your reason to visit though, despite some trying long-term problems like pollution and power cuts, Kathmandu is one of Asia’s great cities and seldom disappoints the traveller.
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